Category: Amiga mouse pinout

These addresses each read a 16 bit register. MLD output is used to parallel load the external parallel-to-serial converter. This in turn is loaded with the 4 quadrature inputs from each of two game controller ports 8 total plus 8 miscellaneous control bits which are new for LISA and can be read in upper 8 bits of LISAID.

The bit usage for both left and right addresses is shown below. Each 6 bit counter Y7-Y2,X7-X2 is clocked by 2 of the signals input from the mouse serial stream. Starting with first bit received:. Bits 1 and 0 of each counter Y1-Y0,X1-X0 may be read to determine the state of the related input signal pair. This allows these pins to double as joystick switch inputs.

Joystick switch closures can be deciphered as follows:. With proportionally faster horiz line times, the counters will count proportionally faster.

This should be noted when doing variable beam displays. The Linux Kernel 4. Driver-specific documentation 2. Amiga joystick extensions 2. Amiga 4-joystick parport extension 2. Amiga digital joystick pinout 2. Amiga mouse pinout 2. Amiga analog joystick pinout 2. Amiga lightpen pinout 2. Apple Touchpad Driver appletouch 2. Intelligent Keyboard ikbd Protocol 2. BCM Driver bcm 2. CMAD0x Accelerometer 2.

EDT ft5x06 based Polytouch devices 2. Elantech Touchpad Driver 2. Driver for tilt-switches connected via GPIOs 2.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service.

Retrocomputing Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for vintage-computer hobbyists interested in restoring, preserving, and using the classic computer and gaming systems of yesteryear. It only takes a minute to sign up. I have an original Amiga "tank" mouse, the PCBs are good, but the cable is clearly faulty as the Y axis and left mouse click doesn't work when it is tilted to the right.

I know I have to get a 9 pin D-Sub female connector. Unfortunately there were a few "revisions" of the mouse, and the pads on the mouse side were not always signed; the color coding isn't guaranteed to be repeatable either. If your mouse has the pins marked on board, you can use the pinout of this extension cord to match them. Cut the mouse cable a very short distance from the plug, just enough to expose the wires and their colored shells.

amiga mouse pinout

Using ohm-meter match colors to pins in the plug, write that down - and also match colors to pad order inside the mouse. That way you'll be able to re-create the mapping, unless the fault is right at the socket. If it is - you'll have some pretty arduous surgery at your hands, stripping the plastic from the plug with a sharp knife to trace the physical connection of the wires to pins.

Use an ohmmeter to determine the end-to-end mapping from D-sub pins to the connections on the PCB with the existing cable. Write this down and make sure your new cable has the exact same mapping. I went to an electronics shop where the owner mapped the connections and replaced the D-Sub connector, which fixed the mouse.

So using an ohmeter as recommended by Dave Tweed is the way to go. Another thing I discovered upon closer inspection of the Amiga mouse PCB is that the soldering points labels 1 or 2 letters actually indicate which wire to solder to each point according to its color. So here are the matching soldering points-wire color combination for the main PCB:. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered.

Asked 3 years, 3 months ago. Active 3 years, 2 months ago. Viewed 1k times. I need to replace the cable in order to have it working properly. Informancien Informancien 2, 1 1 gold badge 11 11 silver badges 31 31 bronze badges.

Amiga All models pinouts

What revision of the mouse do you have? There are a few different PCBs used for these things depending on which revision you have. Active Oldest Votes. If there isn't, you'll have to match them "by hand".

Dave Tweed Dave Tweed 1, 1 1 gold badge 6 6 silver badges 15 15 bronze badges. But the existing cable is broken. There is a bad contact, so I should be able to map the connections, but it will be hard as some cable might not conduct electricity properly.Optical, laser, wireless, just take your pick. This version is pinout compatible with A mainboard revision 2B only. Variant for 1D4 mainboard revision is available here. Under the load, this resistor inevitably creates slight voltage drop on a VCC.

Amiga All models pinouts

As long as your system is powered from well performing PSU and you do not over-stress USB port, this is perfectly fine. In such a case, you are advised either to replace the PSU for one with better characteristics, or replace above mentioned 4R7 resistor with 0R value.

USB module itself contains its own level of short circuit protection — a resettable polymer fuse. Andrejs Sahovs — 17th August Pyro — 15th February Steven Tibbits — 12th April I happy to inform you the USB modules will return to shop early next week. Another good news is it has undergone a design overhaul and its now more robust then ever.

Peter — 8th July Apart from dimensional difference 1D4 mainboard has different connector, ergo USB module for 2B will not work with 1D4 mainboard without major modification. USB module for 1D4 mainboard is beeing redesigned now and should be available again in about weeks. Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review. USB mouse module rev. NEW in rev. Description Additional information Reviews 5 Description This version is pinout compatible with A mainboard revision 2B only.

Installation in a few easy steps: remove chassis screws, separate top half of the chassis from bottom by lifting it up disconnect LED module cable from mainboard disconnect and remove keyboard assembly. Steven Tibbits — 12th April Hi, I am enquiring as to when you may have this item back in stock?. Peter — 8th July I have a rev 1D. Will it not work?This seller is taking a break until May 4, Sign up below to get an email when they're back!

The store is currently closed whilst I sort out alternate postal arrangements during this lockdown. I have made many USB keyboard kits for many different vintage computers, which I am starting to list here on Tindie.

These were built at the request of A owners who wanted to reuse the case and keyboard from a broken machine, either as a plain USB keyboard or to install a Raspberry Pi or similar.

This is a plug in and go kit, designed specifically for the A No special drivers and need to do any remapping in software, the keyboard will be detected as a standard USB keyboard in Windows, OS X, Linux, and any tablets or phones which allow you to connect a standard USB keyboard.

eBay Amiga Mouse Lot Part 1: Unboxing, Diagnosis, Cleaning

The joysticks will appear as two separate USB game controllers with a 4-way directional stick and up to three buttons. Amiga mice are not supported, only joysticks. The audio version also comes with a 3. The kit does not include an Amiga case or keyboard, you need to provide those yourself, and please try to start with a broken one if possible. The Joysticks, Raspberry Pi computers and 3D mounting kit shown in some of the photos are not included. Almost all the keys map directly to keys on a standard PC keyboard.

The top right keyboard LEDs are mapped as power and numlock. Some software can be configured to flash numlock as a disk activity indicator. The caps lock LED works as normal.

The keyboard mapping is designed for standard UK or US keyboards, however, the Amiga keyboard was as far as I know, common across all regions. The only changes were to the keycaps, so the mapping should work in other languages if the matching keyboard language is selected in the operating system. The joysticks appear as two game controllers with an X and Y axis and three buttons.

A bug in recent versions of Windows causes both joystick ports to be labelled as 'Joystick 1', although the order they are displayed in is correct. Linux based systems identify the ports correctly.

Product: 4. Shipping: 5. Communication: 4. Torsten Feb.In Europe the Amiga was released in May The original Amiga proved to be Commodore's best-selling Amiga model, enjoying particular success in Europe. It has been claimed that over 6 million As were sold worldwide, [ citation needed ] however, according to Commodore UK, the entire sales of all Amigas in both Europe and the USA were million. The Amiga series was discontinued in June [7] and replaced by the similarly specified and priced Amigaalthough this new machine had originally been intended as a much cheaper model, which would have been the A In lateCommodore released the "next-generation" Amigaa machine closer in concept to the original Amigabut featuring significant technical improvements.

Despite this, neither the A nor the A replicated the commercial success of its predecessor, as by this time, the popular market was definitively shifting from the home computer platforms of the past to commodity Wintel PCs and the new "low-cost" Macintosh ClassicLC and IIsi models.

Outwardly resembling the Commodore [9] and codenamed " Rock Lobster " during development, the Amiga houses the keyboard and CPU in one shell, unlike the Amiga It utilizes a Motorola microprocessor running at 7. The earliest Amiga models use nearly the same Original Amiga chipset as the Amiga Two special graphics modes are also available: Extra HalfBrite, which uses a 6th bitplane as a mask to cut the brightness of any pixel in half resulting in 32 arbitrary colors plus 32 more colors set at half the value of the first 32and Hold And Modify HAM which allows all colors to be used on screen simultaneously.

The sound chip produces four hardware-mixed channels, two to the left and two to the right, of 8-bit PCM at a sampling frequency of up to 28 kHz. Each hardware channel has its own independent volume level and sampling rate, and can be designated to another channel where it can modulate both volume and frequency using its own output. With DMA disabled it's possible to output with a sampling frequency up to 56 kHz. There's a common trick to output sound with bit precision that can be combined to output bit 56 kHz sound.

The stock system comes with AmigaOS version 1. Despite the lack of Amiga compatible internal expansion slotsthere are many ports and expansion options. There is a floppy drive port for daisy-chaining up to three extra floppy disk drives via an DB23F connector. This connection can also be genlocked to an external video signal. The system was bundled with an RF adapter to provide output on televisions with a coaxial RF input, while monochrome composite video is available via an RCA connector also coaxial.

There is also a Zorro bus expansion on the left side behind a plastic cover. Peripherals such as a hard disk drive can be added via the expansion slot and are configured automatically by the Amiga's AutoConfig standard, so that multiple devices do not conflict with each other. This connector is electronically identical with the Amiga 's, but swapped on the other side. Such upgrades usually include a battery-backed real-time clock.

The Amiga also sports an unusual feature for a budget machine, socketed chips, which allow easy replacement of defective chips. The CPU can be directly upgraded on the motherboard to a ; or to a, or via the side expansion slot; or by removing the CPU and plugging a CPU expansion card into the CPU socket though this will require opening the computer and voiding any remaining warranty.

The case is made from ABS plastics which may become brown with time. This may be reversed by using the public-domain chemical mix " Retr0bright ", though without a clearcoat to block oxygen, the brown colouring will return. Remember when the diagnostic codes are triggered it means the computer has some kind of fault and it can easily mis-interpret the fault and give false readings.

Likewise a corroded battery on an A can cause faults on the A motherboard if the corrosion is very bad and has spread to the motherboard. Max 6 bpp. The Amiga can show multiple resolution modes at the same time, splitting the screen vertically. This works by letting each pixel position use the previous RGB value and modify one of the red, green or blue values to a new 4-bit value.

This will cause some negligible colour artifacts however.

amiga mouse pinout

A popular expansion for the Amiga was the Amiga circuit board that can be installed underneath the computer behind a plastic cover.Tip: Get Amiga Forever for super-comfy Amiga emulation with pre-installed Workbench, games and other goodies! A sister site to Lemon Made in Sweden by Kim Lemon Go to Advanced Search. Lemon Amiga home. View previous topic :: View next topic. Actually the pinouts are labeled as 1 joystick, 2 joystick.

Are these pinout units replaceable. I'm worried I've wasted my money and the pinouts can't be replaced.

amiga mouse pinout

If they can be replaced, is there any differences in the 1 joystick - 2 joystick pinouts. Do I need to do any soldering? Are they easy to replace? I do have an idea where to buy some from, www. Any other retailer suggestions will be welcome in tracking some replacements down. These are for the a I am referring! Back to top. Yes soldering will be required.

USB mouse module rev.2 for Amiga 1200 (2B mainboard)

Okay, after a bit of faffing with credit cards I ordered two 9 D-sub male connector pins heads from the link you gave. Though there's no plastic housing on, them so I'll have to recycle the ones on the 9 pin D connectors that are on the motherboard. No idea if they separate or not, the - pin connector from the plastic connector casing. The battery needs replacing and has leaked, although not too badly, there is some swelling of the motherB directly under the battery but doesn't seem to have swelled out to other areas.

I have a replacement battery already and I also have a soldering iron, so I'm going to attempt to lift out the battery and de- solder the battery.I doubt anyone could make a truely universal USB mouse controller.

So off I went, starting reasearch on a PS2 mouse controller, and, found the above 2 mentioned sites, along with others, but this project seemed the most practical to me. Since the code I used was version 1. Mouse project 1. Also since the code existed, why not for the Atari ST too, even though I don't own one.

I started by simply building the 1. Thats it. Note: Switch needs to be set on powerup, it is not checked after the initial check. Here is everything you should need for project 1. Code header file Code Compiled file Photo its a big file, I won't kill your connection by forcing it to load here Note: if you file down the corner of the DB9F connector, it will fit in the mouse socket on the A, and work fine.

Mouse Project 1. I then monitor these lines during the wait delay in the mouse data transfer routine, switching to Joystick mode which simply changes the Logic state on pin B7, which connects to the 74LS control line. No photos, but here is the info. Code header file same as above Code Compiled file Mouse project 1.

Since it is inside an Amiga, it doesn't need to enter Atari mode, therefore I changed the function of pin A2 to be the middle mouse button on Joystick port in, even though its probably never used, and removed the check for an Atari. It's lazy, but works, and can easily be changed to use the Atari code if anyone wanted to.

Code header file same as above Code Compiled file Photo of the back of my Amiga. Photo inside the amiga with Shield Photo inside the amiga without shield As you can see, I cut away the side of the shield so it can comfortabbly stick out and still use the original mouse slot for the joystick port.

Last edited by bobingabout; 30 October at Originally Posted by bobingabout. As you can see, I cut away the side of the shield so it can comfortabbly stick out and still use the original mouse slot for the joystick port. Originally Posted by demolition. Nice work and a very useful mod. Why not use more of the space in the expansion port and put in a USB port as well?

Originally Posted by cpiac Last edited by prowler; 30 October at Reason: Back-to-back posts merged; please use multi-quote.

Originally Posted by johnim. I like your design principles. I fully admit I am hopeless at electronics but it strikes me that the circuit could be a lot smaller presumably if done on manufactured boards - yours looks like a cut down and I think better version of the board sold on eBay at great cost not currently but sold in Poland Are you going to offer yours for sale pre-assembled or was this a personal labour of love?

Find More Posts by Methanoid. Originally Posted by Methanoid. Are you going to offer yours for sale pre-assembled or was this a personal labour of love? Last edited by bobingabout; 31 October at Well, feel free to PM me if you decide to sell v1.

Looks great! My one suggestion for 1.